It was never our intention to offer "Custom Made" jackets much beyond a choice of lining, colour of zippers and basic size amendments such as an 1" or 2" off the length or added to the length of the sleeve or body to fit taller or shorter customers as our basic size jackets are cut to fit a height in the 5'10"/5'11"
Over the years this has gradually been extended to include all manner of alterations, many of which has caused us problems mainly due to the difficulty of producing a bespoke fit in horsehide, or come to that any heavy leather... which is totally unsuited to making a jacket to a very precise set of measurements.
The problem is simple, heavy leather is hard to fold at the seams and slight variation in the folding of a seam can give variations to the precise measurement of the joined panels. While we try to allow for thicknesses while cutting a jacket it's impossible to guaranteed an exact measurement around the body for example where there are at least four folded vertical seams while most of our jackets have six vertical folds or more. Add this to difficulty to providing an across the shoulder measurement, the least precise jacket measurement there is due to the variations in the cut of sleeve holes from one style to another and to the precise location of the shoulder seam, something else that varies greatly from one manufacturer to another, and even from one jacket style to another within the same maker's range.
This leaves us no options other than to be unable to guarantee measurements of a finished jacket to be any more precise than to be within ½" of requirements. This minimal discrepancy means nothing on a leather jacket, a few weeks wear and any leather jacket starts to form itself to the wearer's body and even an inch one way or the other will be totally hidden in the overall ambiance of a broken in jacket. Similarly it's virtually impossible to prevent horsehide from starting to show some grain starting from new as the jackets need to be turned inside out more than once during the manufacturing process. This can sometimes cause grain to start appearing on one or more panels and sometimes some light creasing to the hide. This is something that happens on a daily basis once the jacket is worn and what can sometimes appear to be minor initial mismatching will blend in perfectly after a few wears.
The other regular request we must strongly advise against is modifying the basic cut of a particular style. Years of development have gone into getting these styles as close to perfection as we are able to and we hope our customers will trust this advice. Some jackets have a fairly slim cut with high armholes and slimmer sleeves, mostly those replicating the styles of the 1930s. Some of our other styles, such as the Barnstormer and the Veste Des Rallye for instance, are designed to be worn over a heavy sweater or a jacket and are cut to accommodate these undergarments with looser body shape, deeper armholes and wider sleeves. It's not advisable to interchange these basic patterns.