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Levis LVC XX > Levi's Jeans
Base price: £290.00
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Levis 501XX 1944 - Deadstock US made Cone Mills Denim

On December 31st 2017 Cone Mills White Oak Plant closed it’d doors for the last time spelling the end of an era for US denim and in particular US denim for Levis. Cone Mills have supplied Levis since 1915 when a hand shake agreement made them exclusive suppliers of XX denim for their 501’s.

Levis Vintage Clothing have now used up all remaining stock of Cone Mills denim so are now using Japanese denim. They have also moved production from the US to Turkey (where a lot of regular Levis range is already made). There will be no more US made US denim Levis anytime soon if ever.

These jeans we offer really are the last of an icon, when they are gone they are gone.


1944: “A High Waisted, Regular Fit”


* Cone Mills 1940’s 12oz red selvedge denim (14oz after wash)

* “Two horse” leather patch

* Random Pocket Bag Material

* Two back pockets with concealed rivets

* Capital ‘E’ red tab

* Painted on Arcuates (Rationing for WWII)

* Unbranded Rivets

* "Laurel leaf" Unbranded Buttons

* Button Fly

* Front rise: 13 1/4”

* Bottom opening: 17 1/2 

* Knee: 17 3/4”



Everything changed during WWII. The US government told all clothing manufacturers that they had to remove a certain amount of metal, fabric & thread from their garments in order to conserve these important raw materials for the war effort.


LS & Co did what they could to help. Off came the watch pocket rivets, the crotch rivet and the cinch and its two rivets. Buttons became standard issue during the war, and featured a laurel leaf design.

There was one rationing rule that was harder to bear: the order to remove the arcuate stitching because it was considered false stitching. Rather than lose this important design feature, LS & Co worked out a way to paint the arcuate stitching on every pair of 501 jeans. The paint eventually washed out but having the arcuate visible when buying the jeans was an important thing.

Note - All sizes listed with the ticket size first and the post shrinkage size afterwards.



Download Levis Shrink To Fit Guide to understand more about their vintage dry denim and how to treat your jeans so they are perfect for you.

Download a Levis Fit Guide to see which jeans would be the best fit for you.